Zanzibar Stream of Consciousness (22 July 1998)

Africa, Quintessential:

Top of Form

Bottom of Form

So many people

lining the road,

cycling the road,

wandering the road,

but always looking.

Here women old young,

children,

men with burdens,

loads of sticks,

bundles of leaves,

them all registering

every kind of human expression on their faces:

inquisitive inquiring,

can’t be bothered

just too busy with their intentions,

frightened also,

friendly and smiling with a desire

to connect,

waving,

running alongside the car,

children chanting “Jambo” or “money!”

or scurrying away scared with backs turned

when the camera is pointed at them

to take away their souls,

or they pretend to throw things then laugh,

frown, scowl or look away;

the babies too,

many in rags

one held near a mothers flappybag breasts

for no-one in particular to see;

the grandmothers struggling

to walk in the sub-African sun,

dressed so multi-colourfully

with head scarves and skin of leather

with very white standout-whites-of-eyes,

sometimes suspicious if not cautious;

and the many many men who stare for a care,

they have their own reasons

for making the decision to look,

and enjoy the free novelty of the mini-bus

with the whities

inside looking back at them

for their own entertainment and amusement also;

and the animals too:

so many cows,

every single one with a huge slave lump

in the spine from the yolk I think,

who stood stock still

munching and flailing a tail

in the banana grass

of the sideroad greeneries,

now and again the occasional tethered goat

with the standard goat-expression of bone boredom

not even preoccupation

or focus or much of it at all;

Oh, The Fish!

A great half-swordfish

with a spanning triangular tail fin

which popped out

of one man’s bicycle behind him

as he hurried towards another village;

and the coconut palms and the banana trees

so frequent and foliated,

we get the sighting of two ancient Baobab trees

sourcing their nutrients

from places deep below the surface

of the fertile flats

which beckon you

to notice them

one-after-the-other,

the other huts

grass straw rooves

sitting on walls of straw

or mud

and some brick houses

but most with open doors,

women of house sometimes inside,

or half outside

or idly waiting around,

shuffling about or mending

or scratching at the dirt

with their big round coloured, materialed bums

sticking in the air,

a perfect right-angle formed

by their strong legs,

back-bending to do

a farmer’s job with the soil

or pluck or plant or plough by hand

or notice us go by

or not

in that moment;

and what else?

Well, there were roads like minefields

with holes and swells and mud ponds

and dry rough stony-trap craters

for bumps and avoidance to steer around,

and always someone beside them

not too far away;

and at the end of it

a gorgeous sandy white water of turquoise,

blue beach salty

quite warm to feel and sensuous actually

even sexy to be in as the sun skulked across it,

while before that and after

there were faces faces faces questioning,

searching into yours,

making comments,

just looking blankly, maybe imploring

and gesticulating with it,

making noises of Swahili

such absent-minded lacking concentration movements

of head or arms;

and there were vespas

with only ever boys and men,

and trucks returning with men and women smiling,

alighting onto the ground;

with two police roadblocks

where ‘secret’ money was exchanged

as “punishment” for the crime of being a foreigner

paid for the benefit of a police lunch

or beer or trip to the brothel

or this sort of thing

but we don’t talk about it now,

we just pay and smile and go

and say our name and take our orders

and give the game a go, then go

then move along sir, yes.